Open Channel

October 2023
14 karat gold, Montana sapphires, diamonds

Originally designed in 2016, this ring was several years in the making—partially because client projects come before inventory projects, but mostly because in 2016 I didn't actually have the skills to craft it. Channel setting is already a higher-level stone-setting skill when all of the stones are the same size, and using the technique on a graduated size range of stones makes it even more challenging.

From the beginning, I wanted to emphasize the fact that the five lustrous Montana sapphires are floating between two plates of metal, and to bring the channel itself into focus. By extending the open channel all the way around the shank, I felt like it highlighted the technique and also served as a commentary on communication—the fact that you can see completely through the ring (see the last photo) and know that there's nothing holding the sapphires up but the seats in the metal walls means there's nowhere to hide, no illusions, no prevarication at all.

Over time I added more conversational elements—the recessed eternity band of seventy-five diamonds can be see seen as subtext, while the Florentine-engraved texturing on the flat of the ring serves as nuance, since it's difficult to pick up on when you're focused on the gemstones. Much like a conversation, this ring has to be evaluated from all sides to be appreciated in total.

All channels open—are you receiving?